| 1 |
Will Not Start or Run |
- All wires are hooked up to their corresponding terminals.
- Is the dryer is plugged in.
- Blown fuse or circuit breaker.
- Is the Door switch functional...door closed. Check for error code 3 (See Table for code definition).
- Start/Pause rotary selector dial functional.
- Is the control Board operational.
- Belt off or broken and Belt Cut-off Switch operates.
- Is the motor functional.
- Check motor winding resistance: 2.88ohms between pin #3 and 4, 3.5ohms between pin #4 and 5.
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| 2 |
Motor runs/ tumbler will not turn |
- Belt off or broken/damaged.
- Idler tension spring too weak or stretched.
- Idler pulley jammed or stuck.
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| 3 |
Runs a few minutes and then stops |
- Lint buildup around drive motor.
- Low voltage present.
- Blower impeller blocked in blower housing.
- Check the actuator of motor.
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| 4 |
Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker |
- Is the belt connected well?
- Is the winding of the motor continuous? (Rotor winding, stator winding, generator)
- Is the motor protector normal?
- If above points are not found, the PCB assembly is out of order. Replace it.
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| 5 |
Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker (Gas Model) |
- During ignition the dryer will draw 6 amps. With the burner ON, the dryer will draw 4.5 amps. If the dryer is drawing amperages above this, then the house wiring, fuse box or circuit breaker is suspected to be at fault.
- Igniter harness loose and shorted to base.
- Incorrect wiring or wire shorted to ground.
- Drive motor winding shorting to ground.
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| 6 |
Will not heat (motor runs) |
- Open heating element.
- Hi-Limit trips easily or is open.
- Regulating thermostat trips easily or is open.
- Membrane switch open.
- Check Thermistor.
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| 7 |
Will Not Dry Gas Model Poor Gas Ignition |
When the dryer is operated on a heat setting, the igniter should be energized and burner shall fire within 45 seconds at 120 VAC. The failure of a component in this system will usually be indicated by one of three symptoms (No.8, No.9, No.10)
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| 8 |
The igniter does not glow |
If the igniter does not heat up, remove power and using an ohmmeter, check the following:
- Open flame sensor
- Open igniter
- Shorted booster coil
- Open wiring
- Bad motor switch (Neutral supply)
- No power from control (L1 supply)
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| 9 |
Igniter glows - No gas ignition |
If the igniter heats up but the main burner flame is not ignited, remove power and using an ohmmeter, check the following:
- Open secondary coil
- Open holding coil
- Open wire harness
- Stuck flame sensor (Stuck closed)
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| 10 |
The gas is ignited but the flame goes out |
If a normal ignition takes place and after a short while the flame goes out, check for the following:
- Radiant sensor contacts opening prematurely.
- Weak gas valve coil may open when stressed by higher Temps.
- Weak Hi-Limit
- Poor venting
- Bad drum seals
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| 11 |
Improper drying clothes wrinkled Rough texture long dry time |
- The lint filter is not clean.
- Any restriction in the exhaust.
- The outside exhaust hood damper door stuck closed.
- Is the exhaust too long, too many elbows, flex ductwork installed.
- Poor intake air available for the dryer.
- Incorrect tumbler speed. Tumbler belt slipping.
- Blower impeller bound; check for foreign material in blower area.
- Customer overloading dryer.
- Check clothing labels for fabric content and cycle selected.
- Clothes too wet due to insufficient spin out by washer.
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| 12 |
Noisy and/Or Vibration |
- "Thumping" Check for loose tumbler baffle, rear tumbler roller(s) worn or misaligned, out-of-round tumbler or high weld seam on tumbler.
- "Ticking" Check for loose wire harness or object caught in blower wheel area.
- Scraping Check for front or rear bulkhead felt seal out of position or worn tumbler front bearings.
- "Roaring" Check for blower wheel rubbing on blower housing or bad motor bearings.
- Popping or squealing sound. Check for a sticky or frayed belt.
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